IRELAND 2006

After the York rally ended on the 26^th june I headed off to York station to catch the train to Holyhead, then the ferry to Dun loaghaire.I arrived at 5.45pm and fought through the rush hour traffic to get as far from south Dublin as I could by nightfall, I found a nice b&b, at 8.30pm in Bray.

Day 1. 27^th june Bray-Kilkenny 142km

I think I found mrs.doyle’s(of father ted fame) competion. I asked my landlady on the day of departure directions to the next town.When given them I asked “is the traffic busy on the N11?” “only until you get off!” she replied. I think she must be a fan of Cybil Fawlty, because she’s also good at ‘statin’ the bleedin’ obvious!

Raining again and I’m about to discover that my raincoat is not waterproof because I didn’t re-proof it after I washed it from my trip to spain .I started to lust after my friends army poncho at the rally which had been ridiculed by some for it’s weight, but valued by others for it’s waterproofness. Me for one right this minute.fortunately I had a reserve waterproof with me. No way was I going to walk the streets doing the touristy bit in a bright green waterproof, I don’t care how much rain Ireland is reputed to get, street cred is street cred wherever you are, right?However two points did spring to mind now that I was wearing a dark grey waterproof: 1. do I keep dry by wearing this and risk blending in with the background and being knocked off at any moment? Or 2. do I stay wet and visible and therefore safe? Well what do you think I did? I’m not stupid I stayed dry of course!

Found a nice b&b in Kilkenny and in true cycle/campers style even haggled for a better price.so would you if you knew how much guiness costs!

Day2. 28thjune Kilkenny-Mallow 142km

Raining again! Still I took some nice shots of Kilkenny especially of people standing in the rain-why?- because it’s banned everywhere except outside the pub.For the first time this trip I took what I thought was a short cut only to find it was over the mountain pass of Knockmealdown mountains 794 mts.What they don’t tell you is the amount of 1:4 hills that involves. Worse still were the descents, the road was so uneven that I was gripping the handlebars for dear life not wanting to get bounced out of my saddle at 50 kmh.Couldn’t find a campsite and I was sick of paying b&b prices when I came across a picnic area-say no more.

Day3 29^th june Mallow – Kenmare 110km

After a night’s camping in a picnic area I am more tired because of the lateness of pitching my tent and the early hour of de-camping.However 2 hours down the road I came across a ‘tea-wagon’ actually a converted storage container with it’s own kitchen and plenty of seats.one fry-up and plenty of tea later I was on my way. Finally a dry days cycling.Finding tonights campsite was hard. the sign saying ½ mile ahead turns out to be 1 ½ miles along a narrow dirt track where the worlds supply of midges lived! They greeted me with open arms, open teeth and anything else they had to cause me discomfort.

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Day 4. 30^th june Kenmare- ring of kerry-Fossa 122km.

Finally a day of sunshine and a day when I could dry out my kit. I’d gone from Kenmare on the N70 around the ring of kerry not knowing that from Killarney – Killarney was 112miles. So Kenmare – Killarney was100miles minimum!Give it a rest! My bike weighs 85lbs. So I got half way round and thought I’d cheat by going from Waterville – Killorglin. What I didn’t realize were the TWO mountain passes this involved (sounds familiar! Getting flashes of déjà vu), So finally with the legs looking like they belong to a shire horse I eventually found a campsite just outside Killarney and book myself in for two nights.

Day5.1^st july Day off in Killarney.

England go out on penalties. A sad day!but the number of tourists in town is unbelievable, it’s pick a language day, you’re bound to hear it walking the crowded streets. More surprising is the amount of eastern Europeans on the streets begging, the down side of joining the euro? I don’t know. Who am I to judge?

Today was the 23^rd annual ring of kerry charity cycle ride, 112miles, it was raining when I got up at 8am. It didn’t put off the hundreds of souls who turned out for the ride, some of whom weren’t wearing a waterproof! They didn’t bring one because the forecast was for good weather, only they didn’t tell anyone that forecast was for later on that day. Still it dried everyone out. Plus it gave me a great chance to take some photos.

Day 6. 2^nd july Fossa – O’Brien’s bridge 150km

The anti-septic cream and anti-histamine tablets are really earning their money today. If you think the Scottish midges are rough – try the irish ones. The little ba....ds were waiting for me every time I opened my tent flap with even the tiniest scrap of flesh showing. Fortunately today the sun is helping to dry out the bites. No! I mean it I’m actually getting a suntan, on top of the one I got in spain in june but hey a suntan in Ireland - result!!

I nearly fell off my bike after lunch, I only had two shandies, honest! But I was so tired I had to have a 40 minute kip in a farmer’s field. 8.30pm. I arrived only to find the campsite I’d stayed at here 9yrs ago had closed down. Riverside it was then, I picked a beautiful spot, lots of people walking by no-one batted an eyelid. Best pitch I’ve had yet and free of course!

Day 7. 3^rd july.O’Brien’sbridge – B allyeenay. 114km

An easy day today after yesterday’s epic 150km, probably only as far as lough derg and the first campsite or freebie I’m not bothered now. Especially since my kit is beginning to hum a little and I don’t mean my fav’ tune!

Well thank god for beer and the hospitality it brings. Tonight I have a free pitch in the field next to the pub into which I had only gone to ask for directions. The landlord asked me where I was camping that night, nearest field l said , that’ll be the one next to this pub he said.so I stopped for 3 pints didn’t want to appear rude after all! Besides pitching your tent under the influence and in the twilight is one of the many joys of camping. You can keep your fancy hotels and your room service give me 3 or 4 pints of the black stuff on an empty stomach and just sit back and watch the ealing comedy un-furl………….. which brings me to my next problem.

Day 8. 4^th july Balleenay – Mullingar 74km

9.45pm. last night disaster! I managed to spill my beer and dinner on my sleeping bag. BIG MISTAKE. Anyone who has smelled my cooking will know why. spilling my dinner ‘cos I’d just put bare skin on a hot handle was clumsy enough, but knocking over my last can of beer in the ensueing panic was downright unforgiveable. However the luck of the Irish seemed to be smiling on me today. I’ve just managed to come across the only launderette in Athlone and it’s only next to a pub that’s still serving breakfasts. It turns out the woman had only opened the place two months ago and would I like her to do my washing whilst I went and had some breakfast, would I ?? So an hour and a half later I am on my way, it has stopped raining, my sleeping bag is clean and fresh for tonight all my kit is clean and dry. What more could I want? The smart reader will have spotted this omission….. yes that’s right I haven’t had a shower or shave since, even I can’t remember. Anyway just think yourself lucky you weren’t riding downwind of me. Camping wild just doesn’t have the same bathroom facilities.

Just to compound it I could only find a pitch on the Mullingar canal towpath. Nice and quiet but it’s raining again.

Day 9. 5^th july Mullingar – Boot road, Dublin 90kms

I am very close to Dublin and of course Dun loaghaire. Within one days ride anyway. So tonight I want to find a decent campsite as close to the ferry port as I can get, for my 11.10am departure on Friday 7^th july. Plus if I’m close enough I wouldn’t mind a day off in Dublin, after all to get this close and not see the capital would be a shame.

Well unbelieveable I’ve only found the exact campsite I stayed at last time 9yrs ago. Then it had only been open 2 months and 9yrs on it was just as clean and tidy. So I booked 2 nights. The Dublin tour bus picked people up right out side and dropped them back again 6 hrs later. Ample time for anyone to see the sights of most major cities.

In Summary

Av.118kms per day. The prices have gone through the roof now that they’ve joined the euro. esp. the beer! Roads are very busy now. Ireland is not the sleepy little place it once was. town centres have become just like big car-parks. Campsites seem very scarce. B&Bs are 30-50 euros per night.The people are still great but the midges are just plain viscious!!

PHIL HAMMOND.